Images of Rock Climbing on "Justice of the Peace" on Courthouse Butte in Sedona, Arizona (1999)

Justice of the Peace: Grade IV/V, A2, 5.9-5.10, 4 pitches [FA John MacDonald, Doug Daniel & Isaac Shaffer, 1999]. You can see the climb as you near Bell Rock on Rt. 179. Park at the pullout next to Bell Rock and take the trail for about 1/3 of a mile. Turn right and head straight up toward the huge roof that marks the climb. To start the climb, follow the crack on the left side of the column that sits at the back of the huge dihedral. The crack on the right side of the column was not climbed and should provide a good variation for pitch 1.There are good anchors at the top of the column (pitch 1), under the roof (pitch 2), and on the face to the right above the roof. Bring a standard desert aid rack with hooks for pitch 4. Most of pitches 1, 2, and 4 can be climbed free at 5.9-5.10.

Topo of the climb

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The route follows the dihedral up to the roof, then out right onto the face above Isaac Shaffer rapping from the top of the column on pitch 1 John MacDonald leading pitch 2 up to the roof Doug Daniel and Isaac Shaffer dodging rocks at the belay at the top of pitch 1 Doug Daniel cleaning pitch 2 with Isaac Shaffer giving him lots of sound advice

Doug Daniel leading the roof on pitch 3 Doug Daniel leading the roof on pitch 3 Doug Daniel turning the roof on pitch 3 Isaac Shaffer lowering out to jug pitch 3 Doug Daniel at the belay at the top of pitch 3
Isaac Shaffer drilling anchors Doug Daniel trying not to look like he's posing Doug Daniel nailing at the start of pitch 4 Doug Daniel catching some air while rapping Doug Daniel rapping